backpacking

Ben Macdui

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Well, finally managed to get out and camp again after over a year. Myself and Tony left in the Afternoon and set out from Linn of Dee (near Braemar) about 4pm. I was planning heading down Glen Lui but after about three miles we met some walkers at Derry Lodge and they recommended heading up Glen Derry and taking Ben Macdui (The UK’s second highest mountain) from there.

Lovely evening, the heather was in full flower so the ground was carpeted in purple.

Because Tony was coming along I had bought new gear. Firstly a Sierra Designs High Route trekking pole tent – I really like the design and it was a great price for what you get. It doesn’t work so well with Pacerpoles, so I’m getting a pair of Leki poles for this 😁.

Also was using a Gregory Optic pack, again got at a good price and actually a really good bit of kit, much underrated I think.

A new Pajak Radical 4z is as warm as my old Marmot bag but at 2/3s of the weight and much more packable. Pajak make the bags for Lightwave but at a better price.

And finally, my new Soto Windmaster was excellent and saves me quite a bit of weight on my MSR Windburner, though if the weather was predicted to be rough I would still take the latter.

Anyway, we camped up near the Hutchison Memorial Hut and enjoyed a decent sleep.

In the morning the weather was deteriorating but we decided to go up anyhow. Lovely views until we hit the clouds, but once we got to the plateau it was driving horizontal rain and little visibility, pretty nasty. Took the opportunity to shelter in the ruined hut up there and brew a coffee, before heading the 1/4 mile to the summit. Given the conditions we abandoned the plan to drop down into the Lairig Ghru and decided to retrace our steps to Glen Derry.

Navigation was a pain (and I certainly didn’t do as well as I should have on this point) so we had to follow a bearing over boulder fields to get back to the path, during which I slipped and gave myself a nasty bruise on the elbow. We however were followed by a herd of Stags in the mist which was unreal!

We got back down to the bothy rather wet (my goretex boots had given out entirely) so warmed up there before heading back to Linn of Dee. Of course the weather changed and we had beautiful sunshine by the time we got back.

Day 2 – Ballindaloch – 22 miles

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A story of ‘a better pitch is just around the corner’. 

Started off with a Lidl instant Capuccino, which tasted foul in my kitchen but oddly good in a tent. Descended the road into Boat o’Brig and climbed into a more hilly section of pine and deciduous forest with occasional views of the Spey, very pretty at times.

On the descent into Craigellachie met two walkers taking the trail in the opposite direction, retired father and son. Took their recommendation of the Highlander Inn in Craigellachie, which had a fantastic range of malt whiskys (must have been hundreds) of which I sadly didn’t partake. 

The couple of miles to Aberlour was a beautiful stretch along the Spey.

At Aberlour met a family cycling the way and they gave me a rundown of where my be good pitches further along, adding that ‘you won’t make it to Ballindaloch’.  From here onwards the trail follows the old railway track with an interesting selection of old stations and halts. There were places to stop, but it was always ‘the next will be better’. 

Well, after a 22 mile day I arrived at Balindalloch! Easy day tomorrow for me!

Day 1 – Buckie to, almost, Boat o’ Brig – 14 miles

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Managed to drag myself out of my bed suffering from pre-walk nerves. Luckily my wife was driving me to Buckie so shoved me out of the door with my 14kg pack. The more astute of you would say ’14kg, crazy weight!’, but I was trying to simulate a longer walk without supply so had 3l water and enough food for 4 days. Well that idea lasted as long as it took me to give in to a alluring Cornish pasty at Fochabers.

The drive to Buckie was largely through rain, but conveniently cleared up before we arrived. A large latte was procured to see me off. Not the best idea, since the next stint, while a pleasant walk down the coast to Port Gordon, was, due to the lack of facilities or privacy, a punch up between my bladder and said latte. 

Much to my relief the next stretch to Spey Bay was along a secluded old railway line and throw pine woods. Very warm and sunny for late October. The path to Fochabers and beyond offered occasional views of the Spey but few obvious places to camp. Found a little spot short of Boat o’ Brig and put Ainsley Harriot to the test. Or at least his couscous.

Hoping to drop in to a distillery tomorrow!