Speyside Way

Day 4 – Aviemore – 17 miles

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I felt refreshed after my stop at the excellent campsite, and set off in good spirits, largely due to the pasty in my sack…

The path to Nethy Bridge was pleasant, following the old railway line in part, but unremarkable. After a while a couple passed me on bikes and had a chat. I was to stalk them for the rest of the day.

At Nethy Bridge used the loos and caught up with the cyclists for another chat. The path out leads though the Abernethy nature reserve, very pretty but hopelessly way marked, can’t be sure I followed the Speyside Way at all! Overall the section to Boat of Garten was very pretty and I heard my first Capercaillie. At times though it seemed like the set of The Blair Witch Project….

Boat of Garten had an excellent café with great cake, heartily recommended. It also had the two cyclists from earlier, another chat. They were nervously checking the exits mind you.

The Sustrans enhanced path to Aviemore gave wonderful view of the Cairngorms.

A great bonus was stumbling across the Cairngorm Brewery for a celebratory pint with locals and a retired couple from Massachusetts.

Now for the train home!

Day 3 – Grantown on Spey – 14.5 miles

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Day started pleasantly from Balindalloch, double porridge breakfast and an orderly exit down the old railway line.

However, after crossing the A95, the words of the walkers I’d met earlier came back to me: ‘avoid that section, it’s no fun’. It is indeed not. It was said that the local landowner wasn’t very cooperative when the way was created, so it winds and zigzags and is badly maintained. Bogs of churned up farmland, narrow channels with barbed wire, over fencing seemingly bulldozed by tractors. And then it rained.

Finally making it to Cromdale, my misery was compounded by a shut pub. No choice but another 4 1/2 miles to Grantown. 

My luck changed, the weather brightened, the waterproofs were stowed and the last section was though Anagach Woods, a lovely walk. 

My joy at seeing a chippy open was unbounded. While waiting I dropped a bottle of coke I’d just bought from them, it exploded all over the floor! The first thought of the lovely girl behind the counter was to give me a new one. She then almost suggested it was her pleasure to clean up as it kept her busy. Quality place, ‘The Royal Fish Bar’. Recommended.

Now in a town and not wanting to proceed, tried a nearby camping and caravan park. Wonderfully friendly, a nice little pitch and heated shower block. The lap of luxury. http://www.caravanscotland.com

So shit day, but ended lovely. 😀

Cairngorm National Park marker

Day 2 – Ballindaloch – 22 miles

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A story of ‘a better pitch is just around the corner’. 

Started off with a Lidl instant Capuccino, which tasted foul in my kitchen but oddly good in a tent. Descended the road into Boat o’Brig and climbed into a more hilly section of pine and deciduous forest with occasional views of the Spey, very pretty at times.

On the descent into Craigellachie met two walkers taking the trail in the opposite direction, retired father and son. Took their recommendation of the Highlander Inn in Craigellachie, which had a fantastic range of malt whiskys (must have been hundreds) of which I sadly didn’t partake. 

The couple of miles to Aberlour was a beautiful stretch along the Spey.

At Aberlour met a family cycling the way and they gave me a rundown of where my be good pitches further along, adding that ‘you won’t make it to Ballindaloch’.  From here onwards the trail follows the old railway track with an interesting selection of old stations and halts. There were places to stop, but it was always ‘the next will be better’. 

Well, after a 22 mile day I arrived at Balindalloch! Easy day tomorrow for me!

Day 1 – Buckie to, almost, Boat o’ Brig – 14 miles

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Managed to drag myself out of my bed suffering from pre-walk nerves. Luckily my wife was driving me to Buckie so shoved me out of the door with my 14kg pack. The more astute of you would say ’14kg, crazy weight!’, but I was trying to simulate a longer walk without supply so had 3l water and enough food for 4 days. Well that idea lasted as long as it took me to give in to a alluring Cornish pasty at Fochabers.

The drive to Buckie was largely through rain, but conveniently cleared up before we arrived. A large latte was procured to see me off. Not the best idea, since the next stint, while a pleasant walk down the coast to Port Gordon, was, due to the lack of facilities or privacy, a punch up between my bladder and said latte. 

Much to my relief the next stretch to Spey Bay was along a secluded old railway line and throw pine woods. Very warm and sunny for late October. The path to Fochabers and beyond offered occasional views of the Spey but few obvious places to camp. Found a little spot short of Boat o’ Brig and put Ainsley Harriot to the test. Or at least his couscous.

Hoping to drop in to a distillery tomorrow!