Day 24, Zero

A nice zero and my body is feeling refreshed. Had a nice cooked breakfast which Victor kindly bought for us, and lots of coffee.

I bounced my ice axe and boots on to Wrightwood in case Mt Baden Powell has snow when I arrive. The great thing is that if I don’t open the box the forwarding is free.

Big Bear Lake has a good selection of resupply options and the Dollar Store helped keep the cost down. I am fed up of eating out when in town so made a pasta Bolognaise – maybe I over catered because this is the leftovers…

But never fear – tomorrow we are doing a ‘Slack Pack’. The trail is pretty much South-North up to Big Bear but then takes an abrupt left turn and runs West-East for a while. This means that after about 12 miles hiking you actually end up just as close to Big Bear Lake as when you started. So to ‘Slack Pack’ is to leave most of your gear in Big Bear Lake, hike the miles and come back! That way you get the miles in and take one days supply off the heavy carry to Cajon Pass. Ingenious.

In my case, due to the leftovers, dinner is waiting for me!

Day 23, Mile 266.1

I’m very weary and in need of a zero day so today was really a quick 13 mile march to the highway and a ride into Big Bear Lake.

So I have two nights at the Big Bear Hostel, owned by a ex-soldier called ‘Sarge’. He was actually present during the Hizbullah bombing of the marine compound in Beirut in 1983. Remember that? I seem to remember that in retaliation the USS Missouri bombarded the Druze in the Chouf Mountains. Who of course had nothing to do with it.

Anyway, I really like the hostel, perfect for hikers. I, and my clothes, are clean again!

The next section is long one to Wrightwood via Cajon Pass. There are resupply options but they are awkward. I may send a box ahead to Cajon Pass, or just make do with what I can find there.

My filtering routine, more than once a day:

Day 22, Mile 253.1

I woke very anxious, not sure why. The others are early risers so I only attempted to get up once they left, about 7.30am. I did have a decent breakfast though, coffee and ‘biscuits and gravy’ – this is indeed an American breakfast food. Barbarians 😉

Such was my torpor and the climb ahead of me (at least 2500′) I intended to take a short day of only just over 10 miles.

However the terrain and weather changed in my favour and the possibility of getting to Big Bear Lake tomorrow spurred me on to 18 miles.

Currently at 8600′, it’s windy tonight but not the type of cold I was getting in the San Jacintos.

Day 21, Mile 235.2

Got up and left roughly with the others, having only a couple of breakfast bars and intending to have coffee and more breakfast once I got to Mission Creek. The 6 miles there were uneventful except for a rattlesnake in the bush next to the trail….. tiptoe past!

I felt invigorated after my second breakfast and coffee, and I needed it since the trail then followed Mission Creek upwards for the rest of the day. The snag is that last winter there was exceptionally high rainfall and this small creek became a monster of 100′ wide and washed everything in its path away, including any bit of the Pacific Crest Trail. So spent the day piecing together the surviving sections.

Happily caught up with Jim and Victor so spending the night with the same guys.

Day 20, Mile 220.2

It says a lot about the diversity of this trail that two days ago I was hacking though ice and enduring sub-zero nights and now I’m in 30° + wondering how many litres of water I need to keep hydrated!

Had a passable breakfast at the cheap hotel then we headed to the Cabazon Post Office. I sent my winter gear onto Big Bear Lake (just in case I need it for Mt Baden Powell). There was a bit of a reunion as Frog King and Loch Ness were there also and luckily the latter gave us a ride to the trail (he is taking a few days off with a bronchial infection).

The walking started with a flat section heading away from the interstate and then a tough climb which was very exposed to the sun.

However I was rewarded with a spectacular view of Whitewater River. After 10 miles any water worries were over, indeed it was hard to cross the river as it was flowing fast.

So to end the day we had an idyllic site next to the river and a spectacular moon rising (pretty much a full moon tonight).

Day 19, Mile 209.5

Well, after yesterday not a lot to report today. The slow descent from 9000′ to around 1000′, getting warmer as I went. Water consumption went from very little to several litres in the last 5 miles.However my trail name was proposed and seconded – ‘Rescuer’. Sounds better than previous suggestions so I may keep it!Once I reached the interstate highway I10, I got an Uber with a nice guy called Sami from Jerusalem – got a chance to chat in Arabic.Cheap night in Banning and my first Taco Bell. Not a bad place for cheap calories!Of course I reached the 200 mile point today:Sorry about the shadow, there was no way to avoid it!

Day 18, Mile 190.5

What an eventful day. A day in which I thanked my lucky stars that I both invested in a Winter Skills course and tackled Fuller Ridge with the correct equipment.

It started with an unpleasantly cold and misty morning. I didn’t get up early; early is good in the heat to get some miles in but here I’d rather the ice softened a little!

Several of us discussed whether this was a good day to proceed. A couple I met yesterday had no spikes so I tried to subtly suggest they should drop down to Idyllwild. Another was going to wait to see which way the weather went. I downloaded a forecast via satellite and it didn’t look too bad. So I set off, and I’m so glad I did.

For the first two-thirds of the day I met no-one and used my crampons pretty continuously, sometimes with the axe. I didn’t like being alone in the conditions so was very pleased to meet Noelle and Steve who I’d met previously on the trail. They had microspikes and walking poles.

I went on ahead and soon met some challenging terrain and was concerned they might find it tricky with just spikes, so waited until they caught up and decided to stick with them. Occasionally I kicked new steps in an attempt to make passage easier.

However, it wasn’t enough and Noelle slipped and slid 15 feet down a very steep incline and luckily steered towards a bush which brought her to a halt. Thankfully she was not hurt but clearly in shock.

Now Steve couldn’t help, he had spikes too. So I descended to her and used my axe plunged into the ground repeatedly to give her a solid point to push herself out from under the bush and get almost upright.

The slope was too steep to her to ascend so I again employed the axe to cut her a sequence of steps, one at a time, and help her onto each one. After about 20mins we were back on the path. Noelle was clearly in shock but she did marvellously well to summon the strength to get back to the trail.

There were more sketchy sections ahead so to reassure I went first and cut some more steps with the axe to make sure no further slides occured.

We were all relieved and happy to reach the camp spot.

I was happy that the wonderful training of Glenmore Lodge allowed me to avert a call to the emergency services and help someone out. I feel I’ve paid back Austin for staying with me until I got a new filter.

It’s great that we all look out for each other on this trail.

I’m now whacked. Night night 😀

Day 17, Mile 183.4

I had arranged a lift with Arlo back to the trail for around 9am, so emerged from my tent around 7.30. After taking only a few strides, I heard the exclaimation ‘Michael!’ and standing there was Freddy! You may recall from other parts of this blog that I hiked the West Highland Way with Freddy last summer. He started on April 4th and as I had done a few days ago he hitched from Paradise Valley Café into Idyllwild. He came in late and after I retired for the night he unknowingly pitched his tent yards from mine.

It was a wonderful surprise and we went to breakfast together at the Red Kettle. He is nursing a swollen ankle so will take a day off.

I introduced him to Arlo who generously offered him a ride too when he needed it.

I hiked the 2.5 miles, 1600′ climb back to the PCT while struggling for signal to give Fleur a phone call. After a while we gave up and I decided to hike on another 1000′ climb in hope of getting the T-Mobile signal from Palm Springs which I had used in previous days. It worked; I was rewarded with a long call with my favourite person 😁

I also bumped into Frogking again. He had eaten/drunk something bad and yesterday was on the mountain exploding from both ends – poor guy! Lovely man, hope to bump into him again.

More snow on the trail today, though nothing hazardous. I decided to try my Petzl Leopard crampons with the new Lowa boots. It was great, rather than picking my steps carefully I could just pace through regardless.

Tomorrow I will tackle Fuller Ridge which will be a cinch with the setup I now have. Bodes well for the Sierras.

Over the next 19 miles I will descend an astonishing 8000′ to San Gorgonio Pass. Sadly I will then have to regain most of it!

Day 16, Zero Day

I have recovered my energy and have a spring in my step again. These two days were an excellent idea – muscles are building after the continuous walking and needed some time to catch up!

Heard back from Conor that Fuller Ridge is a bit sketchy and they’re going into Cabazon and will report on how good it is.

So I think I’ll get the boots I looked at yesterday, use them over Fuller Ridge then mail them to Kennedy Meadows. By the time I get there my Salomans will be worn out and I’ll use the boots for the mountains again.

And that plan makes me feel comfortable rather than nervous so it must be good.

Also only a 3 day food carry, and plentiful water, so it won’t feel any more heavy than usual.

It’ll be sad to leave Idyllwild – such a lovely town with entertaining bar staff:

Day 15 – Zero Day

A sorely needed rest day. I got up and donned only my waterproof trousers and down jacket – everything else went in a black sack. My first shower in a week made me more palatable and once my clothes were washed and tumble dried I went straight to breakfast – but still in my waterproof trousers and downie!

The Red Kettle gave me unlimited coffee and a breakfast burrito of immense size!

It was gorgeous but took me 30mins to eat! Just what I needed to help repair aching muscles.

I spent most of the day either in the library catching up with peoples donations or wandering around in the warm.

But then, one of the best moments of my life happened, I met the Mayor of Idyllwild, Max:

I kid you not, this Maximus Mighty-Dog Mueller, II, actual Mayor!

https://www.yourcentralvalley.com/news/meet-max-this-golden-retriever-is-the-mayor-of-idyllwild/1418853303

He has two canine deputies who I will hopefully meet tomorrow.

Also met again these lovely fellows

Hadn’t seen them since very early on the trail.

Another day of recuperation tomorrow. I already have a lift to the trailhead arranged for Monday 😁