After a windy night, the morning was cold and indeed was the first time I started hiking with my down jacket. Flakes of ice were being blown off the trees and even the flowers were covered.

We made for the next water source (Robin Bird Spring), about ten miles distant. We didn’t really stop much due to the cold but by the time we arrived the wind had eased. In doing so, we passed 600 miles.

After our stop, when we crossed to the other side of the ridge, the sun started to come out and by mid afternoon it was a glorious sunny day!

On approaching Landers Meadow Camp, our destination for the night, we were delighted to see that Support Droid was here tonight, a week after we last saw him at Sawmill Camp! So a wonderful vegetable chilli was provided.

The temperature soon dropped and we disappeared into our tents. Some others there had a big campfire, and they said this time last year they were in shorts and t-shirts – this is really unusual weather.

A chilly and wet day today, woke up to the sound of rain on my tent. Ironically there is little water on this stretch and I was practically out. So after a quick cup of tea we set off on the 6 miles to Golden Oaks Spring. On arrival it was still raining and we joined Little Red, the Chairman and two others hiding in a little shelter that had no doubt originally been cobbled together to shelter from the sun!

With water available I had porridge, coffee followed by noodles to keep warm – it was only about 5°, windy and wet. Freddy and I stayed until we couldn’t keep warm then set off.

With no hurry to the Sierra (still snowbound) we are doing relatively short days for the moment, but still around 16 miles.

During the afternoon the rain cleared and we got some sun, but the wind didn’t abate. Thankfully we have a idyllic little sheltered campspot.

We walked a mile or two from the hotel to have breakfast at the Voyager Restaurant at the Mojave Air and Space Port. This is where Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic aircraft are based. It is also where the Voyager set off to complete the first continuous flight around the globe. Lots of memorabilia here.

The waitress, Christol, didn’t know about the PCT but once Freddy explained she was quite excited about it. Not many hikers come this way it seems!

A hitch out of Mojave proved impossible so we used the bus again which stops where the trail crosses Highway 58.

Now the PCT is so named because it follows the crest, and towns are generally in or near the passes. So usually when our packs are most heavy (after buying food) we have to climb back up. This day was no exception, and a surprisingly pleasant climb of 2400′ ensued.

Camped at a pleasant flat spot amongst trees, but I have only a little water left. We will hike the six miles to the next water source early tomorrow.

We got up nice and late and headed to the McDonald’s for a cheap breakfast. Mojave is a bit run down but probably a more realistic view of America than the little tourist towns we’d previously been at.

There is a bus for $3 to Tehachapi so we headed over so that Freddy could collect his package from the post office and I could do some shopping that the ‘Family Dollar’ store in Mojave couldn’t satisfy.

We met the Chairman and Little Red, and I finally caught up with Mild Sauce again. Also two new hikers:

After a while headed to the Best Western where Freddy was attempting to upload multi gigabytes of video. Met Second Chance again, he is likely to enter the Sierra with us if things tie up correctly.

A late lunch sandwich at the German Bakery was excellent, and we headed back to Mojave to eat the jumbo pack of strawberries I’d bought, with yoghurt.

There were 11 tents at the creek last night, mostly because it was the only water and flat ground around.

As always I was one of the last out but it was to be a short day so no worries.

The first 7 miles was a climb of a thousand or two feet, but not too hot.

Soon after, a fantastic local has created a little haven in the mountains with parasols, water and a hiker box!

I decided to go to Mojave rather than Tehachapi because the rooms were cheaper, and persuaded Energizer (Freddy) to share a room. It makes sense as we can bus to Tehachapi for $3 anyway.

On the way down to the road, we met a day hiker who immediately offered to turn around back to the car park and take us to our motel! Fantastic guy.

I also had my first standoff with a rattlesnake, a baby one hidden behind a gate, saw him just in time!

Today was likely to be a hot dry section so we arose early and set off before 6am – the sun rose while we were on the trail.The first 17 miles over the valley floor was hot and dry, with not shade whatsoever. We were pleased to get to the bridge and shelter under it for a few hours. This part of the trail followed an aquaduct and a water pipe taking water from the mountains to LA.The rest of the day was through a windfarm and a steep climb to the next water source. I’m very tired but a shorter day tomorrow and hopefully on to Tehachapi or Mojave for a day or two off.

I woke up to the smell of fresh coffee. That trail angel hero ‘Support Bot’ treated us all to fresh coffee (ground that morning!) along with eggs and bacon.

To add to that, the sun came out and dried my tent a little and gave us a rainbow.

So back to normal service of a nice sunny day and the gradual descent into the valley, with the bonus of passing the 500 mile mark.

Better still, at the road there was a trail angel with snacks and beer!

We’ve been so lucky this weekend. A further 7 or so miles brought us to the Hikertown ‘hostel’ and the feud between the Neenach Café and the and the Wee Vill Market – more on that later maybe!

Tomorrow we walk the Western edge of the Mojave desert, but the weather is not due to be too hot. Then on to the town of Tehachapi and a zero.

If you told me today that I was in Scotland I would have believed you. Chilly, misty, and then raining – not what you expect of the Southern Californian high desert.

Freddy, fellow Dutchman The Chairman and I set off for a long day, with Little Bee sort of popping in and out of the group.

There was little to see due to the mist, and we decided on aiming for a water source 18 miles distant. Trouble was, it wasn’t there!

So wet and cold we hike on another 2 miles to Sawmill Camp and there was trail magic!

The heroic trail angel ‘Support Bot’ served us hot chocolate and homemade soup under his awning while the rain hammered down. It was incredibly welcome and so well timed.

His wife did the PCT in 2016 and he followed her all the way providing support and hot food. He is now looking after hikers for a week here. What a hero.

There are apparently bears around so we are storing our food in his vehicle.

Tomorrow we plan to get to Hikertown Hostel. Whether we actually stay there will depend on the weather. If it’s still cold and wet it will be hard to resist.

A short hike with Second Chance and Little Bee down the the road and into Green Valley.The Anderson’s residence, Casa de Luna, is here. There are only two rules for entrance; you need to put on a supplied Hawaiian shirt and get a hug from Terrie Anderson.The have a huge Manzanita forest out back with loads of camp spotsOut front there is an area for relaxing:They also very kindly have a chat to assess your bowel movements…A very relaxed and friendly place, and a taco salad for dinner.Later in Freddy turned up (he’s finally caught me) and added his usual hilarity.

The morning was cool and humid and I did quite well in leaving Hiker Heaven before 7am. I couldn’t resist a breakfast burrito and coffee before I left town.A few miles of road walk gave way to winding tracks in low hills, with mist often swirling around. Unusual weather I’m told.I caught up with Little Bee and Second Chance and we on and off walked together for the remainder of the day, with guest appearances by someone I’d not met before, Feathers.

For those who don’t know Second Chance is getting quite well known in hiker circles:I will go to Casa da Luna tomorrow, the residence of another famous trail angel couple, the Andersons. I’m only here once so I don’t want to miss the experience. It does mean I’ll only do 8 miles though.