Day 21, Mile 235.2

Got up and left roughly with the others, having only a couple of breakfast bars and intending to have coffee and more breakfast once I got to Mission Creek. The 6 miles there were uneventful except for a rattlesnake in the bush next to the trail….. tiptoe past!

I felt invigorated after my second breakfast and coffee, and I needed it since the trail then followed Mission Creek upwards for the rest of the day. The snag is that last winter there was exceptionally high rainfall and this small creek became a monster of 100′ wide and washed everything in its path away, including any bit of the Pacific Crest Trail. So spent the day piecing together the surviving sections.

Happily caught up with Jim and Victor so spending the night with the same guys.

Day 20, Mile 220.2

It says a lot about the diversity of this trail that two days ago I was hacking though ice and enduring sub-zero nights and now I’m in 30° + wondering how many litres of water I need to keep hydrated!

Had a passable breakfast at the cheap hotel then we headed to the Cabazon Post Office. I sent my winter gear onto Big Bear Lake (just in case I need it for Mt Baden Powell). There was a bit of a reunion as Frog King and Loch Ness were there also and luckily the latter gave us a ride to the trail (he is taking a few days off with a bronchial infection).

The walking started with a flat section heading away from the interstate and then a tough climb which was very exposed to the sun.

However I was rewarded with a spectacular view of Whitewater River. After 10 miles any water worries were over, indeed it was hard to cross the river as it was flowing fast.

So to end the day we had an idyllic site next to the river and a spectacular moon rising (pretty much a full moon tonight).

Day 19, Mile 209.5

Well, after yesterday not a lot to report today. The slow descent from 9000′ to around 1000′, getting warmer as I went. Water consumption went from very little to several litres in the last 5 miles.However my trail name was proposed and seconded – ‘Rescuer’. Sounds better than previous suggestions so I may keep it!Once I reached the interstate highway I10, I got an Uber with a nice guy called Sami from Jerusalem – got a chance to chat in Arabic.Cheap night in Banning and my first Taco Bell. Not a bad place for cheap calories!Of course I reached the 200 mile point today:Sorry about the shadow, there was no way to avoid it!

Day 18, Mile 190.5

What an eventful day. A day in which I thanked my lucky stars that I both invested in a Winter Skills course and tackled Fuller Ridge with the correct equipment.

It started with an unpleasantly cold and misty morning. I didn’t get up early; early is good in the heat to get some miles in but here I’d rather the ice softened a little!

Several of us discussed whether this was a good day to proceed. A couple I met yesterday had no spikes so I tried to subtly suggest they should drop down to Idyllwild. Another was going to wait to see which way the weather went. I downloaded a forecast via satellite and it didn’t look too bad. So I set off, and I’m so glad I did.

For the first two-thirds of the day I met no-one and used my crampons pretty continuously, sometimes with the axe. I didn’t like being alone in the conditions so was very pleased to meet Noelle and Steve who I’d met previously on the trail. They had microspikes and walking poles.

I went on ahead and soon met some challenging terrain and was concerned they might find it tricky with just spikes, so waited until they caught up and decided to stick with them. Occasionally I kicked new steps in an attempt to make passage easier.

However, it wasn’t enough and Noelle slipped and slid 15 feet down a very steep incline and luckily steered towards a bush which brought her to a halt. Thankfully she was not hurt but clearly in shock.

Now Steve couldn’t help, he had spikes too. So I descended to her and used my axe plunged into the ground repeatedly to give her a solid point to push herself out from under the bush and get almost upright.

The slope was too steep to her to ascend so I again employed the axe to cut her a sequence of steps, one at a time, and help her onto each one. After about 20mins we were back on the path. Noelle was clearly in shock but she did marvellously well to summon the strength to get back to the trail.

There were more sketchy sections ahead so to reassure I went first and cut some more steps with the axe to make sure no further slides occured.

We were all relieved and happy to reach the camp spot.

I was happy that the wonderful training of Glenmore Lodge allowed me to avert a call to the emergency services and help someone out. I feel I’ve paid back Austin for staying with me until I got a new filter.

It’s great that we all look out for each other on this trail.

I’m now whacked. Night night 😀

Day 17, Mile 183.4

I had arranged a lift with Arlo back to the trail for around 9am, so emerged from my tent around 7.30. After taking only a few strides, I heard the exclaimation ‘Michael!’ and standing there was Freddy! You may recall from other parts of this blog that I hiked the West Highland Way with Freddy last summer. He started on April 4th and as I had done a few days ago he hitched from Paradise Valley Café into Idyllwild. He came in late and after I retired for the night he unknowingly pitched his tent yards from mine.

It was a wonderful surprise and we went to breakfast together at the Red Kettle. He is nursing a swollen ankle so will take a day off.

I introduced him to Arlo who generously offered him a ride too when he needed it.

I hiked the 2.5 miles, 1600′ climb back to the PCT while struggling for signal to give Fleur a phone call. After a while we gave up and I decided to hike on another 1000′ climb in hope of getting the T-Mobile signal from Palm Springs which I had used in previous days. It worked; I was rewarded with a long call with my favourite person 😁

I also bumped into Frogking again. He had eaten/drunk something bad and yesterday was on the mountain exploding from both ends – poor guy! Lovely man, hope to bump into him again.

More snow on the trail today, though nothing hazardous. I decided to try my Petzl Leopard crampons with the new Lowa boots. It was great, rather than picking my steps carefully I could just pace through regardless.

Tomorrow I will tackle Fuller Ridge which will be a cinch with the setup I now have. Bodes well for the Sierras.

Over the next 19 miles I will descend an astonishing 8000′ to San Gorgonio Pass. Sadly I will then have to regain most of it!

Day 16, Zero Day

I have recovered my energy and have a spring in my step again. These two days were an excellent idea – muscles are building after the continuous walking and needed some time to catch up!

Heard back from Conor that Fuller Ridge is a bit sketchy and they’re going into Cabazon and will report on how good it is.

So I think I’ll get the boots I looked at yesterday, use them over Fuller Ridge then mail them to Kennedy Meadows. By the time I get there my Salomans will be worn out and I’ll use the boots for the mountains again.

And that plan makes me feel comfortable rather than nervous so it must be good.

Also only a 3 day food carry, and plentiful water, so it won’t feel any more heavy than usual.

It’ll be sad to leave Idyllwild – such a lovely town with entertaining bar staff:

Day 15 – Zero Day

A sorely needed rest day. I got up and donned only my waterproof trousers and down jacket – everything else went in a black sack. My first shower in a week made me more palatable and once my clothes were washed and tumble dried I went straight to breakfast – but still in my waterproof trousers and downie!

The Red Kettle gave me unlimited coffee and a breakfast burrito of immense size!

It was gorgeous but took me 30mins to eat! Just what I needed to help repair aching muscles.

I spent most of the day either in the library catching up with peoples donations or wandering around in the warm.

But then, one of the best moments of my life happened, I met the Mayor of Idyllwild, Max:

I kid you not, this Maximus Mighty-Dog Mueller, II, actual Mayor!

https://www.yourcentralvalley.com/news/meet-max-this-golden-retriever-is-the-mayor-of-idyllwild/1418853303

He has two canine deputies who I will hopefully meet tomorrow.

Also met again these lovely fellows

Hadn’t seen them since very early on the trail.

Another day of recuperation tomorrow. I already have a lift to the trailhead arranged for Monday 😁

Mile 179.4, Day 14

You might casually glance at the trail miles and think this was a relatively light day.

How wrong you would be. The climb out of Apache Springs is not included but was tiring, with the path non-existent and the gradients high. About half the distance was on snow, and the altitude hit over 8500′. Moreover the side trail from Saddle Junction was several miles and the road walk into Idyllwild was a few more. It’s no exaggeration to say I’m shattered.

I donned my crampons and ice axe for the short section which has claimed a couple of victims lately, and that was straightforward. There followed a snowless section for a few miles in which I met Melinda and Henry:

Now these two were actually present when the 65 year old took a head over heels tumble down the mountain yesterday. It was they that alerted the authorities and kept him warm overnight, and with temperatures dropping to -9° they probably saved him. He was apparently hopelessly ill-equipped. I’m calling these two the heroes of Apache Peak 😀

There followed a very tiring hike over snow for quite a few miles. It was spectacular but hard and I was very pleased to get to Saddle Junction to take the sid trail ‘Devil’s Slide’ down to Idyllwild. When I finally got to the campsite met Conor and Thomas again.

I plan on a couple of rest days as most of me is creaking at this point! Plan tomorrow is laundry, shower, food and not much else!

Mile 169.2, Day 13

What an interesting day. As usual, once I got up Gavin was long gone. I hiked down to the next water source, Tunnel Spring and spent some time there filtering water and breakfasting. I took enough to get me to Apache Spring, some 11 miles distant.

The day started quietly, I met a couple of Canadians (Tim and Nieve) and chatted a while, but then saw no-one for hours.

After about six miles my right quads started playing up a bit so I cut my pace right down. By now the promised winds were starting to arrive, and it was getting pretty blustery on the West side of the ridge.

There had been a coastguard chopper circling for hours, and later I actually met a couple of coastguard officers. They had been winched down to pick a 65 year old off the hill but the winds meant that they themselves had to be left there because it was too dangerous for the chopper. Last I saw the coastguard men had been picked up (the chopper hovered about 100m from me) and the 65 year old was in the care of fellow hikers. They will keep him warm and we’ll, hopefully, until the winds ease tomorrow.

I don’t envy him, temperatures down to -6° tonight, brrrr! Thank God I carried the extra weight of a winter sleeping mat and a decent sleeping bag.

Anyhow, the last few miles were a mass of fallen trees and the trail down to Apache Spring was almost non-existent. None the less I made it, got some water, and pitched my tent. My gourmet dinner was Idahoan instant potatoes and pink salmon, in the dark! I am at 6847′, probably my height record.